Lawn Green up Steps: Ready for Spring in Atlanta
Early lawn green up depends on some early pre-green work
Get ready for lawn green-up in metro Atlanta and surrounding counties. Your lawns may seem brown, and worrying about their seasonal greenup may be a long ways off, but some simple steps now will pay dividends in the next six weeks or so. If you have Bermuda, Zoysia, or Centipede turf grass lawn, this article is for you.
If you have a warm-season lawn turf grass, such as Bermuda, Zoysia, or Centipede, then read this article. If you're not sure what type of grass you have, the rule of thumb is whether it was green before December, and is now brown, and generally turns green going into the Spring, then you have a warm-season lawn turf grass. However, this is a rule of thumb, because there are a few factors which could make a cool-season grass (predominantly fescue in Atlanta) behave in this fashion, or at least appear to have these characteristics. The sure bet is to dig up a spade full and take it down to your county extension agent, they are great people and can get you squared away.
The List: At any rate, here are the steps you need to be taking:
- Scalp--Set mower to lowest setting that won't have you skinning to the dirt, and mow lawn.
- Bag and Pick up the clippings. If you do things right this season, this should be the only time you need to pick up the grass clippings
- Fertilize. Note: Centipede lawns need a 0-0-7 (NPK) fertilizer.
- Apply Preemergent
- Pay attention to weather reports.
- Ensure adequate water is getting put down.
- Do not water in freezing temperatures
- Check this column frequently for updates on follow-up maintenance details.
Once lawn begins to greenup:
- Do not mow until at appropriate mowing height
- Aerate once completely green (if you have centipede, do not aerate without consulting a pro)
- Fertilize again
- Treat for errant weeds.
If you follow these steps, this will take you a long way towards having a lush and beautiful lawn this Summer.
Abdurrahim is the lead designer at metro-Atlanta based Proudland Landscape, LLC.
You can contact him with question via email at: arjalal@proudlandlandscape.com
Follow him on twitter at: twitter.com/Proudland
Labels: lawn, Lawn Care, maintenance, Spring, tasks
Centipede Grass Green Up--Spring 2007
Some of you in Georgia, particularly the Atlanta area, may have experienced, or still be experiencing problems with centipede grass lawns greening up this season
Clint Waltz with the University of Georgia has this to say:
"This is common for centipedegrass during the spring transition – from dormancy
to active growth. As the root system develops, centipedegrass color will
fluctuate with soil and air temperatures. With the recent cooler temperatures
this is not abnormal. Neither nitrogen fertilization, nor iron applications,
will appreciably encourage green-up or growth. Waiting on conducive
environmental conditions is the best practice. In most cases this problem will
solve itself by the end of May."
Centipede is a somewhat persnickety grass. Once it begins to decline, in my experience, it does not recover. In Mr. Waltz's words, "(centipede) Lawns that have been mismanaged for several years may experience turfgrass loss, typically evident by gray stolons with no green buds. If this is the case, re-establishment may be necessary."
Fertilization will not speed the green up process. Centipede wants between 1 and 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet over the growing season. This should be broken out into several applications over the growing season. Additionally, mowing heights should be between 1.5 and 2 inches. If lawns have been maintained higher than this, mowing heights should be gradually reduced to this desired heights.
Many gardeners, particularly many old-school types, prefer centipede grass because of its relatively low-maintenance requirements, versus its more aesthetic cousins. However, as with all gardens and landscapes, low-maintenance does not mean no-maintenance. The only no-maintenance garden is no garden.
A.J.,
Proudland Landscape, LLC © 2007Labels: lawn, Lawn Care, maintenance
Georgia Watering Restrictions, as of 18 April 2007
As of 18 April 2007, The Georgia EPD has enacted Drought Level 2 Watering Restrictions. Individual counties and cities may impose additional restrictions; as these become available, the information on our website will be updated
- Outdoor watering is limited to an odd/even system.
- Watering allowed between midnight and 10 a.m.
- Odd-numbered addresses may water only on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays.
- Even-numbered and unnumbered addresses may water only on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays.
- Additional restrictions may be imposed by local authorities.
- Certain exemptions apply for professionally installed, newly planted landscapes.
Additional resources and information are available at:
www.conservewatergeorgia.net
www.gaepd.org/Documents/outdoorwater.html
www.maltalandscape.net
www.georgiadrought.org
A.J., Proudland Landscape, LLC
Labels: gardener, Irrigation, landscape, lawn, Lawn Care, watering
Lawn Watering Comments
Today it is raining in the Atlanta area, which brings to mind a few things to remember about watering your lawn (hose-end sprinklers and in-ground irrigation systems). There are three or four general rules of thumb, which will address 85% of lawn and turf watering issues and mistakes. I've addressed Atlanta area irrigation settings in the past.
- First, lawns need about an inch of water per week.
- This inch should be delivered in as few waterings as possible.
- You need to actually measure how long it takes to deliver the inch
- The water needs to actually be absorbed by the soil, so runoff needs to be minimized.
These rules of thumb result in a number of specific things that you should do:
1. An inch of water. The inch of water needs to be actually measured, especially if you are using hoses and hose end sprinklers. With an in-ground irrigation system, the best way is to measure the amount of water. But it is also possible to calculate the water delivery based on system design, head placement, head properties, water pressure, and water volume. These calculations would be done for each lawn irrigation zone.
Measuring an inch of water is very simple. Place a number of straight sided containers around the lawn (e.g., empty tuna fish cans). With a marker measure and mark an inch on the inside of each can. Start a timer (e.g., note the time on your watch). Run the system until the water level reaches the marks. Stop your timer. That is how long it takes to deliver an inch of water to your lawn.
It is important to place a number of cans around, and take the average between them, because the actual distribution of water will vary, regardless of whether your using a hose end lawn sprinkler, or an inground irrigation system. Even the best designed systems will have variances.
Note: Rain rarely yields an inch a week. If it rains, it does not mean your watering for the week is done. Rain is very deceptive. It may rain all night, but only yield a quarter inch. The only way to actually account for rain, is to use a rain gauge. Barring that, it may replace a single watering session.
2. No run-off. The next thing is to minimize run-off. Putting down an inch means nothing, if three quarters of it runs into the gutter. This is very simple. Start your timer again. Run the system. Observe until you see water running of the lawn and onto driveways, walkways, gutters, etc. Stop your timer. Note the time. This is the length of time you should run the system per session.
Various factors will affect run-off:
The slope of your lawn. Here, in the Atlanta area, many yards have steep slopes. Most yards will have at least one section (backyard, front lawn, side yard) which has a slope.
Soil types will also have an affect. Again, in Metro Atlanta, we have clay soils, which absorb water more slowly.
Soil compaction. Aeration will help to relieve soil compaction, among other things, helping to increase absorbtion rates.
3. Watering frequency. The final thing to do is to take the time to run-off, divide that into the amount of time it takes to deliver an inch, and that gives you the number of watering you need per week for each area of your lawn. For example, if it takes 45 minutes to put down an inch of water, and it takes 15 minutes before water begins to run off, then I need 3 watering sessions per week to give me an inch.
Space the sessions out over the week, and time them for early in the morning (best), or if necessary late at night (OK). Do not water early in the evening. This can lead to fungal problems. Avoid watering during the day--evaporation will waste water and mess up our calculations.
If your area has
watering restrictions, as we do in many area of Georgia, and especially in Metro Atlanta, then this adds another layer. I've discussed
Atlanta area watering restrictions in a past, and will address them again soon.
There are many other related issues, which I will address over time. Rain barrels, grey water, ponds, lakes and pumps, well water, bedding plant needs.
Labels: Irrigation, lawn, Lawn Care, watering
A Few Things to Look for in March Landscapes
This month the focus will be on Spring green-up and Summer weed prevention. Our crews are currently scalping warm season lawns (Bermuda and Zoysia), Fescue lawns are being cut low, though not scalped. In February we applied an initial course of fertilizer and spot treated any Winter weeds. In March we will follow up with some additional fertilizer, pre-emergence weed killer, and spot treatments.
Additionally, this is a good time to replenish and freshen mulches (chips or pine straw.) Mulch will help conserve moisture, stabilize soil temperatures, and, of course help beautify your landscape. We have begun applying new pine straw to some landscapes, however, the frequent rains have caused some delay. If you would like your mulch replenished, be sure to let us know.
Labels: Lawn Care, maintenance, mulch
Lawn Mowing Heights for Spring Geen Up
It’s time to start getting lawns ready for Spring green up. Here in Atlanta, warm season grasses (primarily bermudas, zoysias, and centipedes are already having root activity. Cool season grasses (fescue) will be putting on growth with the rain and warming temperatures. A key component in your lawn care regimen choice of lawn mowing heights. There is the book mowing height. But, here in the Metro Atlanta area, we have special considerations. We are a bit south for ideal fescue performance, and much further north makes growing bermudas an issue.
My recommendation is to begin mowing and lowering the mowing heights going into Spring. Maintain cool season mowing heights at between 1 and 2 inches until green up is complete. Maintain fescue mowing heights at 2 ½ to 3 inches. As the season warms up gradually raise the mowing heights for bermudas, zoysias, and centipedes. Hold at about 2 ½ through the summer. For fescue, you want to be mowing at 3 to 3 ½ inches by the end of May.
Exceptions and caveats: Well-irrigated and frequently mowed bermudas and zoysias can be maintained between 1 and 2 inches. Intensely managed fescues can be maintained at between 2 ½ and 3 inches. Do not attempt to keep centipedes at very short mowing heights. However, for the average residential and commercial turf-grass, stick to the previously mentioned heights.
One key component, often over looked is equipment maintenance. If your dull blades are shredding your turf-grass leaves, no amount of mowing or height adjustments will make your lawn look good.
Labels: Lawn Care
Subscribe to this, the Proudland Blog 